What games can you play with rabbits? As buns are prey animals, anything that involves chasing or the element of surprise will likely stress them out and is best avoided.
Lifelong rabbit lover Amy Pratt, who is known as the Bunny Lady advises: “Rabbits are social creatures who do enjoy playing with their human companions, but you need to be creative and flexible in the ways you interact. Always make sure you respect your rabbit and their personal boundaries.”
INTERACTING WITH YOUR RABBITS BOOSTS THEIR WELLBEING
Bunny experts agree that playing games and interacting with your buns is a brilliant way to deepen the bond that the two of you share. Amy Pratt reveals: “You’ll gain more insight into your rabbit’s personality, and they will slowly start to trust you more and more. Play is also a great way to encourage exercise and maintain their health.”
Rabbit Welfare, a charitable organisation that works to ensure all pet rabbits in the UK are cared for with understanding, insight and kindness, advises: “To allow your pet rabbits to carry out their natural behaviours they need to be given plenty to do. Anything that keeps your rabbits safely stimulated and active is great for their wellbeing.”
SEE THINGS FROM YOUR RABBITS’ PERSPECTIVE
Small pet expert Marylou Zarbock has some useful advice. She says: “Looking at the world from your bunny’s point of view gives you an insight into how your companion might like, or dislike, a game. Rabbits are prey animals, so they have the instinct to flee, freeze, or fight when faced with a perceived threat. Rabbits usually are not fond of loud noises, sudden movements by others or even being picked up. Getting startled is no fun for rabbits. This pretty much rules out surprise or chase games.”
LET THE FUN BEGIN
Announcing that it’s playtime by always saying the same phrase will signal to your rabbit that playtime fun is about to begin. Marylou Zarbock advises saying something along the lines of: ““Hey, Thumper, let’s play,” “Thumper, are you ready to have some fun?” or whatever phrase you wish that includes your bun’s name. Be consistent using the phrase so that your rabbit learns that when you say it, a game is about to begin. When playtime ends, have another phrase that you say to signal this. Even if your rabbit is the one to end the game, say the phrase.”
Once your rabbits understand that there’s some fun (and tasty treats) to be had, they may even start to let you know they’re up for a game. Marylou Zarbock adds: “Your rabbit might decide that it’s time to play. If a toy gets tossed at you, a ball is rolled your way or you get ‘the nudge,’ join in when you can. Your buddy wants your attention.”
For more hesitant buns, setting up explorer games that they can investigate at their own pace, can be a rewarding activity.
Rabbit Welfare suggests: “Rabbits are inquisitive and love exploring. They like to climb into and onto new toys, so give them cardboard boxes, large pipes or bits of rolled-up carpet to play with. Searching for tasty food is another favourite pastime. Why not hide titbits and watch your pets hunt for them?”
“It’s also important to remember that not all rabbits will like every way of playing,” adds Amy Pratt. “Try out some different games and different ways of interacting with your rabbit to see which ones they like best. Rabbits have the instincts to chew, dig, and forage. Knowing these behaviours, we can play games that allow your rabbit to use these natural instincts in fun and creative ways.”
7 IDEAS FOR GAMES TO PLAY WITH YOUR RABBITS
Take a small bunch of tasty, scented greens – such as parsley, coriander or some Luscious Leaves – and sit near your bunnies. Let them come over to investigate and reward them with a little nibble. Then move to another spot and call your rabbits’ names and, when they follow, offer them another tasty titbit. Then pick up the pace and race to another spot and see if they follow (they probably will!). The game can last between five to 10 rounds or until your buns have had enough.
Take two to three plastic cups (transparent for beginners), your bun’s favourite food, and sit down with your pets. Extra tasty Herby Hearts or Fruity Feasts can work well for this game. Place a little food inside the cups and put them upside down on the ground. Now encourage your bunnies to come over to investigate and to get the treat out – you may have to help them figure it out until they’ve got the hang of it. Give them lots of praise when they accomplish it. Add more food and repeat. Make sure you never leave your pet unattended with the plastic cups and don’t let them chew them.
Build a low wall out of cardboard boxes and encourage your buns to hop over them by repeating the word “hop” and holding a tasty treat in front of them. When they make the leap, reward them with the treat, along with lots of praise.
Rabbits enjoy games that cater to their natural behaviours. A game of bunny bowling will appeal to their mischievous side, as they take great delight in knocking things over. Set up some toy bowling pins, with some of their favourite nuggets scattered around them, and watch as your buns nose-bonk them all down.
Some bunnies absolutely love picking up toys with their teeth and tossing them with a flick of their head. You can make your own by stuffing tasty hay in cardboard tubes from paper towel or loo paper rolls, which are perfect for chucking about.
Get a small cat ball, preferably one with bells in it, that your rabbits can pick up with their teeth, and roll it towards your pets. After your bunnies have examined the ball, repeat the roll. After a while, you pets may start to bat the ball around with their noses or pick it up with their teeth. If they enjoy this, you may even get to the point where your buns return the ball to you so you can enjoy a game of bunny tennis together!
PDSA recommends stuffing a Kong for small pets with something tasty, like a healthy, natural rabbit treats. Your bunnies will have lots of fun working out how to get to their yummy snacks. For rabbits who love playing with balls, try introducing a treat and activity ball to provide a rewarding brain game. All you have to do is put your rabbits’ favourite food inside the hollow ball, then adjust the size of the opening to create a suitable level of difficulty. For super smart bunnies who are up for a challenge, a wooden snack cube game could fit the bill. This toy consists of one whole with three separate cubes that you can hide treats for in. A sisal rope is attached to the cubes, so your pets can pull the cubes out of the holder. The small holes in the cubes allow your bunnies to smell the treat and therefore trigger them to search for it.
EXPERT TIPS FOR HAPPY BUNNY PLAYTIMES
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]]>When it comes to rabbits, good security is particularly important during spring and early summer. The longer days and warmer weather can trigger periods of increased activity and extensive digging – and a desire to explore pastures new – even if that’s just next door’s garden.
During spring, wild rabbits are at their peak breeding time, with hormones massively heightened. This ‘spring fever’ can also affect pet neutered bunnies who may become uncharacteristically aggressive and seek to dig out new burrows. What’s more, with their curious nature and feet just made for digging, a determined bunny can tunnel, gnaw and wriggle their way through all manner of cracks and crevices.
DID YOU KNOW?
When we see rabbits digging, we usually imagine that they are trying to construct a burrow. However, there are other reasons that rabbits dig – to uncover food, to expose cool earth to rest on, to try to escape, or to try to get attention.
The outdoor kit you choose plays an essential part in keeping your rabbits or guinea pigs safe. It has to be strong, secure, durable, carefully designed to suit the housing needs of small animals and fit for purpose. Look for:
Choosing a connectable kit is also well worth considering, as layouts can be made to suit the size and shape of your garden and you can gradually add to your existing small pet environment.
DID YOU KNOW?
Guinea pigs are active for up to 20 hours a day and sleep only for short periods. They need plenty of space to exercise when they’re awake with lots of safe hiding places – such as willow tubes, tunnels and den snugs with some cosy bedding material and deep piles of hay inside – where they can snuggle in for a nap.
Don’t forget to check if your garden is pet friendly
If you let your rabbits or guinea pigs enjoy some free roaming time in your garden, it’s always best to remain outside with them as your presence can deter any would-be predators such as foxes, cats or birds of prey. When you can’t supervise them, pop them back into their enclosure.
Also check there’s nothing in your garden that can cause them harm:
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CHANGING SEASONS – MOVING YOUR SMALL PETS BACK OUTDOORS THIS SPRING The days are getting longer, temperatures are slowly starting to rise and spring flowers are peeking up to brighten our gardens. While we happily note a changing of the seasons, our pets do too, and many will be just as eager as us to spend some time outdoors, enjoying the spring sunshine.
WHY GUINEA PIGS LIKE TO PLAY HIDE AND PEEK As prey animals, guinea pigs like to have a range of safe hidey holes to escape to if they become alarmed about something. Giving your pet guinea pigs the best possible piggy life means creating an environment that lets them exhibit their natural behaviours in safe, predator-proof accommodation.
THE DOS AND DON’TS OF HANDLING YOUR PET RABBITS Just like humans, all rabbits are individuals. And, along with having different temperaments and personalities – from boisterous ball chuckers to chilled out cuddle bunnies, their early experiences can affect how they feel about being handled.
RABBITS AND TERRITORY – WHY YOUR PET BUNS WANT TO STAKE THEIR CLAIM Do you have a grumpy rabbit that can sometimes be a bit on the aggressive side? It could be down to territoriality. That’s why providing them with a spacious, enriching environment is so important.
DO YOUR RABBIT HAVE ENOUGH ROOM? In 2010, the original ‘Connection Kit’ was developed to help permanently connect rabbits’ housing space to a larger enclosure or run. Aiming to enrich their lives and allow them to hop, jump, binky, hide forage and run. In their wild environment, rabbits run around five miles a day which means quite simply a rabbit hutch is not enough!
HOW TO GIVE GREAT HOUSING TO YOUR RABBITS Our rabbits have five welfare needs. These are the five things that need to be met to help keep them happy and healthy.]]>Ferrets consider a hole of any size as something that just has to be investigated. What’s more, a ferret with exploring on their mind can be an escape artist to be reckoned with – as the story of Caesar the disappearing ferret reveals...
When Nina Hutton and her family moved from Bristol to a new home in the Somerset countryside, it meant that Caesar, an indoor albino ferret, had a whole new property to explore – which proved to be just a little too enticing for this curious mustelid.
After enjoying lots of snoozing time in a luxurious two-storey indoor ferret apartment with hammocks, toys and lots of cosy bedding, Caesar loves to spend a chunk of his day exploring every nook and cranny of his new house, which has caused some frantic searches and a couple of rescue missions.
Nina says: “One minute he was exploring the lounge and then he just disappeared. We searched everywhere but he was missing for hours. We eventually found him clinging on to the roof outside, trying to fight off some crows. We have no idea how he got up there – he must have found a hole somewhere and wriggled his way up into the attic and onto the roof.”
The mystery of the disappearing ferret
After successfully rescuing Caesar from his scary crow encounter, things quietened down for a while – until Caesar, the disappearing ferret, vanished again. The family looked high and low and enquired at nearby properties to see if anyone had spotted a small white animal scampering around their garden. After several sightings, Caesar was eventually successfully captured by a ferret-knowledgeable neighbour and safely returned, thankfully no worse for wear for his adventures.
Caesar’s story demonstrates that, for a ferret, any hole is something that just has to be investigated, and, with their curious nature and unfeasibly flexible bodies, they have all the attributes required to be extremely successful escape artists.
And, while it’s essential that ferrets are provided with plenty of space, places to explore and tunnels to investigate, keeping them safe from harm is a number one priority.
TOP TIP
Ferrets rest and sleep for up to 20 hours a day. Provide a selection of napping spots such as soft hammocks, a nesting box filled with dust-free bedding (don’t use shredded paper or straw) and some fleecy blankets – ferrets love to make nests in them. Giving a range of options enables your ferrets to enjoy a solo siesta or a cuddle with a friend.
What’s required is a clever combo of spacious areas for zooming around in, safe platforms of different heights to climb onto, rope bridges to tackle, tunnels and pipes to disappear down, a digging box to get stuck in to and a selection of sturdy toys to play with – along with a choice of cosy napping spots.
Your ferrets’ home needs to include:
TOP TIP
You can train ferrets to use a litter tray. Ferrets like to go to the toilet in one area, called a ‘latrine’. Once you’ve established the spot they’ve selected, put a litter tray there as this will encourage them to use it. Ferret litter trays are normally triangular, so they fit snugly into a corner. They have two high sides to keep everything inside. Fill the tray with a wood pellet litter – never use clumping cat litter. A daily spot clean, a weekly wash of bedding and hammocks and a monthly deep clean with a pet safe cleaner will keep everything fresh and hygienic.
Designing a des res for your outdoor ferrets
Outdoor enclosures that combine a well-ventilated and well-insulated indoor section with attached run offers your ferrets constant access to lots of space and activities. This arrangement should also maintain a natural ferret-friendly temperature of 15-21°C all year-round (although you may want to add extra insulation during the coldest days of winter).
Animal charity Wood Green has a great solution for creating the perfect ferret home:
TOP TIP
Ferrets are messy with food and water so creating a splash-proof corner with some acrylic bathroom splashbacks will make cleaning up easier, along with newspaper under their bowls to soak up spillages. You can also encourage your ferret friends to explore and forage by scattering some of their daily portion of ferret nuggets around their accommodation for them to seek out.
Perfect habitats for indoor ferrets
Choose an extra-large 'explorer' cage ideally placed in a separate room of your house. This area will need to be thoroughly ferret-proofed to ensure that it’s free from electric cables and plug sockets, poisonous plants and gaps out of windows or into walls.
Once safe, your mischievous mustelids can enjoy a daily burst of supervised free-range time with you. Small hobby ferret breeders, Fairoak Ferrets, have lots of great ferret housing ideas and advice for both indoor and outdoor ferrets – plus you can check out the Runaround ferret collection here >>
TOP TIP
Ferrets are carnivores so their staple diet needs to contain high levels of meat protein alongside a constant supply of clean, fresh water. Ferrets also need calcium in their diet to help support healthy teeth and bones. A great solution is to feed them a complete nugget diet that contains all of the protein (at least 40%), vitamins and minerals they need in just the right balance. An added bonus is that dry nuggets are a much easier, and cleaner, way to feed your ferrets compared with fresh meat.
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Find out more about caring for your ferrets. Housing, health, feeding and more. It's all here >>
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Changing seasons – moving your small pets back ...
The days are getting longer, temperatures are slowly starting to rise and spring flowers are peeking up to brighten our gardens. While we happily note a changing of the seasons, our pets do too, and many will be just as eager as us to spend some time outdoors, enjoying the spring sunshine.
]]>What do rabbits want?
DID YOU KNOW?
Young rabbits that don’t have enough space to run about are more likely to break bones, according to studies. This is because they don’t get the right opportunities to build up their bodies properly.
You can provide your buns with the home of their dreams by following these 6 simple steps:
DID YOU KNOW?
Rabbits spend an incredible 70% of their time awake eating! But there isn’t a set dinner time for bunnies. They’ll want to eat their nutritious feeding hay or fresh grass all day, every day. Place lots of high quality, dust extracted feeding hay around their housing so they can have a nibble whenever they like!
DID YOU KNOW?
Many people provide their rabbits with hay for bedding, but don’t realise they also need high quality feeding hay to eat too. Top quality feeding hay is an excellent source of fibre and helps your rabbits to maintain a healthy gut. Munching on it also keeps their continuously growing teeth in check, thereby helping to prevent dental disease. In fact, many of the medical problems that occur in pet rabbits – such as dental, gut, eye, behavioural, urinary, weight and skin problems – are due to poor nutrition and could be prevented with an improved diet.
DID YOU KNOW?
It’s much easier to enable pet rabbits to get all the exercise they need if their run is permanently attached to their hutch, so they can come and go as they please. Rabbits are ‘crepuscular’, which means they are most active at dawn and dusk – so lifting them from hutch to run for a few hours in the daytime just doesn’t suit their body clocks and instincts.
This years' Rabbit Awareness Week 2023 (RAW) is all about Neutering: Protect and Prevent. Make sure you don't miss out on RAW 2023 by registering for your free pack >>
Would you like to help all pet rabbits to have better lives? The Rabbit Awareness Action Group is fighting for rabbit welfare. Join us, and sign our letter of support >>
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CHANGING SEASONS – MOVING YOUR SMALL PETS BACK OUTDOORS THIS SPRING The days are getting longer, temperatures are slowly starting to rise and spring flowers are peeking up to brighten our gardens. While we happily note a changing of the seasons, our pets do too, and many will be just as eager as us to spend some time outdoors, enjoying the spring sunshine.
THE DOS AND DON’TS OF HANDLING YOUR PET RABBITS Just like humans, all rabbits are individuals. And, along with having different temperaments and personalities – from boisterous ball chuckers to chilled out cuddle bunnies, their early experiences can affect how they feel about being handled.
RABBITS AND TERRITORY – WHY YOUR PET BUNS WANT TO STAKE THEIR CLAIM Do you have a grumpy rabbit that can sometimes be a bit on the aggressive side? It could be down to territoriality. That’s why providing them with a spacious, enriching environment is so important.
WHY GUINEA PIGS LIKE TO PLAY HIDE AND PEEK As prey animals, guinea pigs like to have a range of safe hidey holes to escape to if they become alarmed about something. Giving your pet guinea pigs the best possible piggy life means creating an environment that lets them exhibit their natural behaviours in safe, predator-proof accommodation.
DO YOUR RABBIT HAVE ENOUGH ROOM? In 2010, the original ‘Connection Kit’ was developed to help permanently connect rabbits’ housing space to a larger enclosure or run. Aiming to enrich their lives and allow them to hop, jump, binky, hide forage and run. In their wild environment, rabbits run around five miles a day which means quite simply a rabbit hutch is not enough!
HOW TO GIVE GREAT HOUSING TO YOUR RABBITS Our rabbits have five welfare needs. These are the five things that need to be met to help keep them happy and healthy.]]>Unless they’ve got used to it from a very young age, some rabbits really don’t enjoy being handled and may wriggle, kick out and even give you a nip when you try to pick them up.
Others, who have gained confidence and trust in their human, will happily hop along to request some fuss and attention.
Whether you have a bun who enjoys interacting with you, or a rabbit who clearly prefers plenty of ‘me’ time in their own space, the important thing is to learn how to handle them correctly.
Rabbits have an in-built fear of being lifted up
Bunny experts at RAWF (Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund) state: “Rabbits are a prey species. They are ground (and subterranean) dwelling. In the wild the only time they would be picked up would be if they were about to become a predator’s dinner. Our own pet rabbits can find this just as alarming, because fear of being lifted is hardwired into their genes. Rabbits that are panicked by being held may struggle and hurt their backs or legs, or they may leap to the ground and hurt themselves when they land.”
Being able to handle your rabbits in a way that won’t scare them or cause them to injure themselves is essential so you can groom them, carry out bunny health checks, or if you need to give them medication.
RAWF adds: “Rabbits that have been handled from a very young age are often more confident and will sit quietly in our arms, without struggling or panicking. Don’t let your guard down though. Although they may seem calm, they can be unpredictable, and they might suddenly leap out of your arms if you aren’t holding them properly.”
The RIGHT way to handle your rabbits
RAWF advises: “If you’re starting off with a nervous rabbit that hasn’t been handled much in the past, you need to build its confidence in you and start off by letting them come to you. Hand feeding is a good reward, and they may allow you to stroke them quite quickly. Take it at a pace they’re comfortable with until you can touch them all over without them panicking before you ever try to lift him up.”
BUILD YOUR BUNNY’S CONFIDENCE
LIFTING YOUR RABBIT UP
RAWF says: “When you do lift them, they need to be and to feel secure. You may need to start by putting a hand over their shoulders to keep them steady. Then put one hand under their chest, with a couple of your fingers between their front legs, the other two around the outside of one leg and your thumb around the outside of the other. With your other hand scoop up their bottom. Get them very close to your body as quickly as you can so that they’re secure and cannot wriggle nor leap out of your grip. Don’t squeeze. Rabbits are very fragile, with fine bones that snap easily and internal organs that can easily be damaged. You need to be firm without squeezing.”
PUTTING YOUR RABBIT BACK DOWN
RAWF advises: “When putting your rabbit back on the ground, you need to be careful that they don’t make a jump for freedom. Keep them as close to your body as you can, bend your knees and squat down, and lower your rabbit to the ground still in your secure grip. Put them down gently and if they don’t run off straight away, give them a head scratch so that they will know you’re still their best friend and you love them. Let that positive reward be what they remember about the experience.”
The WRONG way to handle your rabbits
These are the ways you should never, ever handle your rabbits:
Children and rabbits
Make sure any youngsters in your family know how to handle your bunnies properly and are always supervised. Younger children should interact with rabbits while they’re sitting down on the ground or on a low seat, which makes it safer for them and for your pets. Only adults or responsible older children should be able to pick up rabbits.
FIND OUT MORE about looking after happy, healthy rabbits with The RWAF Guide to Rabbit Care >>
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DO YOUR RABBIT HAVE ENOUGH ROOM? In 2010, the original ‘Connection Kit’ was developed to help permanently connect rabbits’ housing space to a larger enclosure or run. Aiming to enrich their lives and allow them to hop, jump, binky, hide forage and run. In their wild environment, rabbits run around five miles a day which means quite simply a rabbit hutch is not enough!
HOW TO GIVE GREAT HOUSING TO YOUR RABBITS Our rabbits have five welfare needs. These are the five things that need to be met to help keep them happy and healthy.
WHY GUINEA PIGS LIKE TO PLAY HIDE AND PEEK As prey animals, guinea pigs like to have a range of safe hidey holes to escape to if they become alarmed about something. Giving your pet guinea pigs the best possible piggy life means creating an environment that lets them exhibit their natural behaviours in safe, predator-proof accommodation.
]]>However, if you’re thinking of moving your small pets – such as rabbits and guinea pigs – back outside, it’s something that has to be done very carefully.
Rabbits aren’t suited to rapidly changing temperatures
Rabbits don’t cope well with temperature extremes – in the wild, underground bunny burrows stay at almost the same temperature all year round. Rabbits naturally regulate their body temperature by growing a thinner or thicker coat according to the season. So, if you have house rabbits, they’ll be unlikely to grow thick winter coats as they have no need for them inside a warm house.
On sunny days, it’s fine to let your indoor buns have some garden time, but make sure they stay active to keep warm. Providing lots of exciting tunnels, pipes, a digging box and a hay wall will keep them busy. The RSCPA recommends waiting for temperatures to reach between 10-20°C before letting your indoor buns spend time outdoors.
You can tell whether your rabbits are too cold by gently feeling their ears, which should be warm to the touch. Other signs that it’s too chilly for comfort is if your buns are sitting hunched up with their fur fluffed up.
Veterinary charity PDSA advises: “Indoor rabbits will benefit from time outside so they can get some fresh air and enjoy some fresh grass. However, the sudden change in temperature when going from a warm house to a cold garden can come as a big surprise for them. Try to give them regular access to the outside as the seasons change so they have time to adjust. It’s also really important they have free access to get back indoors if they start to feel cold and lots of houses, hides or tunnels filled with hay so they can stay warm.”
Milder weather suits mild-mannered guinea pigs
Guinea pigs can’t tolerate very cold or very hot weather and throughout the year need to be protected from draughts and temperature extremes. The RSPCA advises that temperatures below 15°C can cause them to become chilled and above 26°C can cause heatstroke.
Animal welfare charity Blue Cross recommends “Guinea pigs struggle with high and low temperatures, so wait until the weather is consistently warm to reintroduce them back outside.”
When moving your piggies back outdoors, ensure that their accommodation is well insulated and sheltered from the wind. Night-time can still be chilly in spring, so add extra insulation by covering the roof and exterior walls with a blanket or tarpaulin – ensuring that their enclosure is still well ventilated.
Blue Cross also suggest using pet-safe heating pads such as a SnuggleSafe if the mercury dips: “These last several hours and will help to keep your guinea pig warm but make sure it has the cover on it and is buried under some bedding so that the heat isn't directly on their skin.”
An easy way to ensure your guinea pigs are warm and snug is to provide them with lots of extra high-quality hay and paper bedding to snuggle into. A cosy sleeping box – which could be a cardboard box, or a wooden hidey house – with deep piles of hay inside will give your piggies an extra warm space to snuggle into when it’s time for nap.
Check out our top 5 changing seasons tips
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WHY GUINEA PIGS LIKE TO PLAY HIDE AND PEEK As prey animals, guinea pigs like to have a range of safe hidey holes to escape to if they become alarmed about something. Giving your pet guinea pigs the best possible piggy life means creating an environment that lets them exhibit their natural behaviours in safe, predator-proof accommodation.
DO YOUR RABBIT HAVE ENOUGH ROOM? In 2010, the original ‘Connection Kit’ was developed to help permanently connect rabbits’ housing space to a larger enclosure or run. Aiming to enrich their lives and allow them to hop, jump, binky, hide forage and run. In their wild environment, rabbits run around five miles a day which means quite simply a rabbit hutch is not enough!
HOW TO GIVE GREAT HOUSING TO YOUR RABBITS Our rabbits have five welfare needs. These are the five things that need to be met to help keep them happy and healthy.
]]>According to companion pet experts at Bishop’s Stortford Veterinary Hospital, the natural behaviour of the rabbit has changed very little from that of its wild relatives. This means that pet rabbits retain the instinct of survival, and, when faced with any situation which they perceive to be a danger, will behave as a wild rabbit would.
Territorial aggression is a natural defence mechanism
One way this natural, hard-wired behaviour can manifest itself in our pet rabbits is by being territorial over space and possessions. The veterinary hospital states: “Rabbits can be very protective of their territory (hutch, run, pen etc) and their possessions (food bowl, litter tray, toys etc) and any attempt to invade this territory may be met with aggression. In the wild, rabbits have to keep their territory safe from neighbouring groups of rabbits, so it is a very natural instinct to protect and defend.”
The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF) adds: “Some rabbits can show aggression towards their owner when a hand is placed into the hutch to fill their food bowl or to remove dirty bedding. To the rabbit this is seen as an invasion of their territory, so they treat the owner’s hand as a threat and display territorial aggression.”
DID YOU KNOW?
In the wild rabbit habitats can cover farmland, grassy lands, and moorland. Living in large groups, rabbits live in warrens, which are large underground tunnel systems. Rabbit warrens vary in size, with one study finding a five-year-old rabbit warren that had 150 entrances and had an incredible 517 metres of tunnels.
A rabbit in defence mode can be surprisingly intimidating. Bishop’s Stortford Veterinary Hospital says: “If the rabbit thinks we are going to take something away from them, they will defend it. Rabbits in fighting mode are formidable opponents; they will strike with their front feet, often growling and using their very sharp teeth and claws to inflict as much damage as possible in an attempt to escape.”
Turning aggressive behaviour around
The Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF) says: “Sadly, countless rabbits are rehomed or neglected because they are considered aggressive. The truth is that aggression can usually be rectified.”
The charity states that there may be many factors that can cause aggression in rabbits – from hormones: “Castrating male rabbits and spaying females is vital for many reasons, one of which is that it will help reduce aggressive behaviour, particularly towards each other”, to lack of socialisation, incorrect handling, or being in pain – always check with your vet if your usually friendly rabbit suddenly becomes aggressive. Providing unsuitable accommodation can also be at the root of the problem.
DID YOU KNOW?
Rabbits are highly social animals. In the wild, a group of rabbits is called a colony, or a ‘fluffle’. In these groups, there can be between 10 to 50 rabbits. Pet rabbits also need to live in suitable pairs or groups. Rabbits should only ever live with other rabbits, and they should both be neutered to prevent unwanted litters.
The right accommodation will result in happier rabbits
RWAF states: “Rabbits are very active and athletic animals and a hutch is simply not enough! Being confined to a restricted area does not allow a rabbit to be a rabbit. They cannot do the things they need to do – run, dig, jump, rear up or forage for example. This makes them frustrated, unhappy and often causes health problems. Rabbits that cannot stretch up tall develop spinal deformities that are painful when they are handled, which can result in aggressive behaviour. So, get their accommodation right and you’ll have happier rabbits.”
When you see things from a rabbit’s point of view then it makes perfect sense why they can be very particular about their favourite places to forage, snooze and play – and why disputes can cause a scuffle even between close bunny pals.
It also underpins the case for providing accommodation that provides your buns with plenty of different places to explore and hang out so they can lay claim to what they see as ‘theirs’ and spend time apart when they want to.
DID YOU KNOW?
Rabbits are crepuscular animals. This means they are most active during dawn and dusk and often have naps, rather than one long sleep. Pet rabbits typically sleep for around eight hours a day so need a cosy sleeping area to cuddle up in. Your rabbits’ sleeping area should be warm and dry, and away from any draughts. Use a rabbit-safe paper bedding and deep piles of dust-extracted, sweet smelling hay to create a comfy bed.
High welfare rabbit housing creates a home sweet home
Whether your rabbits live indoors or outdoors, the fundamentals of great rabbit housing are the same. Fundamentally, a rabbit hutch is not enough. Whether you have an indoor or outdoor rabbit hutch, the chances are, your rabbits need more space.
With so much space to explore, foraging fun to be had and all sorts of places to hang out in, your buns can’t help but learn that it’s OK to chill out and enjoy their best bunny lives.
DID YOU KNOW?
85-90% of your rabbits’ diet should be high quality feeding hay or fresh grass. The easiest way to make sure they’re getting enough is to give them constant access around their accommodation. Rabbit hay racks or hay tubes can be hung around their housing or can be freestanding, and they encourage your rabbits to reach for their hay, which is great exercise for them.
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10 WAYS TO KEEP YOUR SMALL PETS SNUG AND WARM IN WINTER To ensure your small pets keep cosy in winter, we’ve lots of practical ideas and must-read advice...
HOW TO GIVE GREAT HOUSING TO YOUR RABBITS Our rabbits have five welfare needs. These are the five things that need to be met to help keep them happy and healthy.
]]>Giving your pet guinea pigs the best possible piggy life means creating an environment that lets them exhibit their natural behaviours in safe, predator-proof accommodation.
A good place to start is by finding out a little more about how these small rodents live in the wild, what they like to do, and all the things they need to make them feel safe and happy.
What pet guinea pigs need to be healthy and happy
Check out the five important things that your pet piggies require.
Even when they’re well-loved pets, it’s in a guinea pig’s nature to be constantly on the alert, looking out for danger. Being very observant is incredibly important to prey animals – which is why guinea pigs love to peek out from a safe hiding place.
A great way to keep your guinea pigs feeling safe is to provide them with cosy, predator-proof accommodation, with plenty of tunnels and pipes to dart into and deep piles of high-quality hay to enable natural tunnelling behaviour. Although on the shy side, guinea pigs are endlessly curious and need spacious areas to explore that are furnished with plenty of hiding places, such as willow tubes and wooden hidey houses, where they can peep out from. Find out how to make a fleecy peek-a-boo curtain for your guinea pigs >>
Animal welfare charity Blue Cross advises that guinea pigs need:
These little rodents are active for up to 20 hours a day and sleep only for short periods, so as well as plenty of space to exercise when they’re awake, they need a comfy guinea pig nest box with cosy bedding material and sweet smelling meadow hay inside to snuggle into to enjoy some relaxing piggy shut-eye.
TOP TIP
Always provide the right bedding. NEVER use wood shavings or sawdust as these not only absorbs the natural oils that guinea pigs have which they need to keep their coats and skin in good condition, they also create dust, which can lead to potentially fatal respiratory problems.
As natural grazers, enabling your guinea pigs to be able to access a permanently attached, safe outdoor run is also essential. If a ramp connects the hutch to a run, check it is wide enough and not too steep or your piggies, with their short little legs, may be too scared to use it.
TOP TIP
Keeping your piggies’ accommodation dry is essential throughout the year as they can be susceptible to a number of skin complaints. Damp and dirty bedding creates the ideal environment for bacteria, fungi and other harmful things to thrive in, which ups the chances of your pets developing a nasty skin condition.
Guinea pigs like to keep busy and, if they get bored, their health and wellbeing will suffer. You can keep them occupied by hiding some of their favourite food in different places for them to discover on one of their explorations, mimicking natural foraging behaviour. Tuck away some tasty, grass-based nuggets in cardboard egg cups, or mix a few natural guinea pig treats in with some yummy Timothy hay.
TOP TIP
Guinea pigs are vulnerable to all extremes of weather and very cold or very hot temperatures are dangerous for them. During the warmer months of the year, your guineas will be happy housed outdoors in a large, good quality hutch, Wendy house or shed. In winter, it may be best to move their accommodation into a shed, porch or utility room.
Due to their highly social nature, guinea pigs can only be truly happy as one of a pair or as part of a small group of the same sex – littermates make the best companions. If you’re planning to keep a male and female together, it’s essential that the male is neutered to avoid the unwanted patter of tiny guinea pig feet. Never keep guineas with rabbits or chinchillas as they all have different housing and nutrition requirements. Bullying between species can occur and rabbits can give guinea pigs serious diseases.
TOP TIP
Guinea pigs think anything approaching is a potential predator – even you. Don’t loom over them (as a predator in the wild might) but crouch down to meet them at their level. When your guinea pigs come forward in their enclosure, don’t try to catch them, just offer a treat – such as some yummy Fruity Feasts with Banana and Blueberry – so your pets learn to come to your hand. Once your guinea pigs are confidently taking treats and allowing you to stroke them, you can try gently handling them.
Along with grazed grass (never feed your guinea pigs grass clippings as this will make them ill), top quality feeding hay should be the main part of a guinea pig’s diet. Not only does this help their digestive system to work properly, gnawing on hay keeps their constantly growing teeth the right length.
Just like humans, guinea pigs are not able to make or store Vitamin C. Feeding good quality, grass-based guinea pig nuggets which are high in fibre and Vitamin C and rich in nutrients, will ensure they’re getting everything they need, along with a small handful of leafy greens, such as a few dandelion leaves or little bunch of parsley daily, along with fresh water in a sipper bottle. Avoid ‘muesli’-style food as these have been shown to cause digestive problems and dental disease.
TOP TIP
Traditionally thought of as an ideal pet for children, small animals such as guinea pigs are classed as exotic pets and, as such, are more complex to feed and care for than a cat or dog. Guinea pigs require more looking after than a child can offer and responsibility for any animal’s wellbeing lies with adults.
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10 WAYS TO KEEP YOUR SMALL PETS SNUG AND WARM IN WINTER To ensure your small pets keep cosy in winter, we’ve lots of practical ideas and must-read advice...]]>
With their warm fluffy coats and thick fur pads on the bottoms of their feet, rabbits can manage colder temperatures quite well – as long as they have the right shelter. Outdoor pet bunnies should be housed in a warm, insulated den during the winter, with space to run about when it’s wet and chilly. During cold snaps, provide a couple of pet-safe heat pads that you can warm up in the microwave each evening for your pets to lie on. If your rabbits are old, thin or young and have not built up a winter coat, the RSPCA recommends moving their home indoors. Create a quiet, cosy space for them in a porch or utility room. You could even provide them with a Den Snug. Ferrets are actually more tolerant of cold than they are of heat, but if kept outdoors, they need to be inside a shed with a pet-safe heater to ward off the worst of the wintry chill.
DID YOU KNOW?
Hamsters, rats, mice, gerbils, degus and chinchillas, may also need some extra warmth to help them through the bleak midwinter. Move their accommodation away from drafts – cold air from windows and doors can give small pets a chill. Choose somewhere secure where they can stay warm without overheating. Provide extra bedding to snuggle into on cold days – and change it regularly to keep things fresh and dry. Also protect them from toxic household fumes – all sorts of things from non-stick frying pans and aromatherapy oils to wood burning stoves produce fumes that can be harmful for small pets.
If your rabbits or ferrets are kept outside in a shed, make sure that it’s waterproof, draught-proof, damp-proof, dry and well-ventilated. Check the roofing to make sure it’s completely watertight and that all the walls are in good condition, with no water staining, which could mean rain is seeping in from under the roof. If you need help with shading and insulating your small animals runs, visit our winter essentials collection for inspiration.
Insulate the floor with thick layers of newspaper and change this daily. Pile extra hay in sleeping areas (such as carboard boxes with entrance holes cut out) for your bunnies to snuggle up in and change bedding materials regularly to keep things fresh and dry. Don’t give rabbits blankets as chewing them could result in an intestinal blockage. Ferrets, on the other hand, tend to love fleecy blankets and sleeping sacks.
HOW COLD IS TOO COLD?
Source: The RSPCA
Keeping things dry is essential – a damp environment in freezing weather will seriously affect your pets’ health. Wet bedding will freeze on cold nights, which could lead to your pets becoming ill. Clean the toilet area daily and their whole home regularly, at least once a week. Always replace a small amount of used, un-soiled bedding to maintain familiar scents and reduce stress.
Check water bottles several times a day to make sure the contents is not too cold or has frozen. Also check the metal spout hasn’t iced up. Wrapping water bottles in bubble wrap or an old sock can help. Access to clean, fresh drinking water at all times is essential or your pets could be coming seriously ill. Bunnies may drink more in the winter if their access to a moisture-rich grass is limited.
Small pets may need a little more food in winter to maintain their body temperature and condition, so allow for this when serving up their daily nuggets. As fresh grass is less readily available, bunnies and piggies will require plenty of good quality feeding hay to munch on. Never feed greens or vegetables that are frosty or frozen.
Our small pets still need regular exercise during the winter. Give them free access to the outdoors to roam in the warmer parts of the day to let your rabbits or ferrets have a run-around in the garden – but don’t let them get wet and cold. If there’s never ending wind and rain, allocate a room indoors (not too warm) where they can have some playtime every day and provide suitable shelter for runs that need it. Fun-loving ferrets will appreciate some toys to play with. Rabbits and guinea pigs will enjoy foraging for treats in piles of hay and tunnels and boxes to hide in. If it snows, you can safely let your ferret out to play for around 10 minutes – many ferrets love tunnelling in the snow – but keep a close eye on them or these slinky wrigglers may well do a disappearing act.
it’s really important to give your small pets a weekly health check, especially in the winter months. As with all healthcare issues, prevention is better than cure – and spotting problems early can make all the difference to your pets enjoying a speedy recovery or becoming very ill. Ferrets can’t catch a cold but they can get a form of influenza which can be passed from human to ferret and ferret to human. Healthy animals can normally fight it off, but older and younger ferrets may find it difficult to recover and should always be taken to the vet for treatment. While bunnies cannot contract a human cold, they can suffer from infections of the upper respiratory tract, causing a runny nose, runny eyes and sneezing, which is commonly called ‘snuffles’. Chinchillas are very susceptible to upper respiratory tract infections, which can lead to serious complications such as pneumonia – a condition that can be very serious for guinea pigs, too. Symptoms include sneezing, coughing, discharge from the nose and eyes, a dull and depressed appearance and loss of appetite. Both gerbils and hamsters can catch a cold from humans, so if you have one, don’t handle your pets. Find out more about pets and winter illnesses here >>
Interacting with their human is often a highlight of a small pet’s day and is even more important in winter when the days are short and life can get a bit boring. Keep daily feeding and exercise times consistent and schedule in some time every day for play, grooming and some extra special attention.
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I founded Runaround 12 years ago after adopting an ‘unwanted’ rabbit and when realising the limitations of a rabbit hutch, we were inspired to think of better ways of keeping rabbits! We have been running as a family business in the North West of England ever since.
While our product range has somewhat grown, in 2010 the original ‘Connection Kit’ was developed to help permanently connect rabbits’ housing space to a larger enclosure or run. Aiming to enrich their lives and allow them to hop, jump, binky, hide forage and run, all of which rabbits love to do. In their wild environment, rabbits run around 5 miles a day which means quite simply a rabbit hutch is not enough!
As a minimum the PDSA advises the space that 2 rabbits need is 3mx2mx1m, which can be in an interconnected and fun overland warren. Of course rabbits are sociable animals and should be kept in pairs or small groups and although we can’t give our rabbits the freedom they have in the wild, the more secure space you can give them, the better. Rabbits are prey animals, so ensuring they have 2 exits for safety, means they are never cornered and can feel secure to run and hide if needed.
As a rule, whether indoors or outdoors, rabbits should have enough space to hop 3 times, without their ears touching the top of their housing. They should also have space to lie down in all directions. You can enrich your rabbits’ environment by providing variation and interlinking your areas! Tunnels, burrow pipes and hay hutches that can connect to their existing housing give your rabbits different areas to explore. At this time of year, the clear dig is a great way to extend your rabbits’ environment and to put their digging skills to good use! Plus, it’s a great way for them to keep cool with the addition of a summer roof and when kept under a tree as they love to nap in compost or soil!
Remember, as we enter into summer areas to hide in the shade are especially important. You can simply move the housing in a shaded ventilated area or consider using purpose built shades.
Enjoy the RAW 2022 activity and as always, if you need support on how you can create room for your rabbits, please get in touch and we can help!
Caroline - Runaround Founder
Would you like to get involved with RAW 2022? Make sure you follow the RAW Facebook and Instagram pages which will be jam-packed with competitions, videos and is the place to get involved in all things “Room for Rabbits”!
Plus, you can get involved by downloading a Rabbit Awareness Week pack! Click here to download your rabbit owner pack on the Rabbit Awareness Week website where you can print your own bunting, download our colouring sheet and access useful guides to help you keep your bunnies happy and healthy.
]]>Take a look at our rabbit housing FAQs:
In the wild rabbits live in a group of burrows underground, called warrens, in family groups. You’ll often find wild rabbits in the great British countryside, living in large groups.
Domestic rabbits can live indoors or outdoors and need suitable housing that meets their needs. Just like their wild counterparts, our rabbits want to dig, need space to hide, and love to forage in their housing.
Sadly, some rabbits are still kept in small hutches, with no access to an exercise area. The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund’s campaign A Hutch is Not Enough has worked to spread the word about the best housing for your rabbits.
When looking for the best housing for your rabbits, look beyond just a hutch. A pair of bonded rabbits need housing that’s at least 3m x 2m x 1m as well as constant access to their exercise area. This is because our rabbits are often most active at dawn and dusk, so need to be able to exercise, play, and explore when they want to – which isn’t always when their owners are awake!
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Remember the three hop rule! Your rabbits should have enough space to lie stretched right out and hop at least three times.
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Rabbits are extremely intelligent animals that need to be mentally stimulated and get lots of exercise every day. As well as suitable bedding, and access to water, feeding bowls and litter trays, your rabbits’ housing should allow them to express their natural behaviours. Natural behaviours are just the things rabbits would do in the wild. Here’s some top tips for how to help keep happy bunnies:
Introducing Excel Runaround, a connective rabbit run system that can attached to any hutch, indoors or outdoors, to give your rabbits a larger overall enclosure as well as constant access to their run! With mix and match options, layouts can be made to suit the size and shape of your garden.
Runaround’s main aim has always been to improve rabbit welfare by creating a more natural environment and expanding your rabbits’ available space. Runaround systems emulate an overland warren structure, just like rabbits would have in the wild!
Importantly, all Runaround housing units have two exits. As our rabbits are naturally prey animals, they’ll regularly feel the need to hide. Offering two exits can help make your rabbits feel more secure knowing that they have options on where to go next.
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Runaround Connection Kit: The original Runaround product, the Connection Kit securely links any two enclosures and is suitable for mesh or wooden fixings for rabbits and guinea pigs.
Runaround Top Box: This light rabbit house has a front viewing panel for your rabbits. It can be covered at night or in hot weather, and in the winter it offers somewhere for your rabbits to sunbathe out of the wind.
Runaround Sofa Pipe: Perfect for indoor rabbits, the sofa pipe gives your buns a great indoor activity and provides a safe space for them to rest.
See the full Runaround range on our website.
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Runaround is a family business based in the north west of England. After adopting an unwanted rabbit 12 years ago, founder of Runaround Caroline explains: “We were inspired to think of better ways of keeping pet rabbits in a hutch. A wild rabbit would run about five miles a day and, without adequate exercise, the skeletal frame of a pet rabbit suffers. So we wanted to create a system that would help our rabbits to exercise while still keeping them safe”.
We always keep our rabbits outdoors all year round and use our own products in our garden. In the winter, we use products from our winter collection, including our clear dig box. In the summer, we have developed and used tunnel shades to help keep our bunnies cool.”
Here at Burgess Excel we are delighted to announce the acquisition of Runaround into the Burgess Pet Care family.
]]>We would suggest the rabbit that has plenty of choice will know what suits them. The connections link different zones and a small space is quicker to warm up with two bunnies inside it. So a draught free small space is first on our list. This includes the den snug, top box and the hay hutch.
In cold weather moving is essential. If the rabbits are given supervised free play when it's very cold that is helpful and also an interconnected system involving wriggling and making their way around is ideal.
The underground temperature will be steady and feel normal to them so consider sinking a hay hutch or creating a mound around it to increase that natural warmth. A buried piece of pipe is not only fun but also good for hiding and good for warmth in winter and coolness in summer! No wonder lots of animals find underground living comfortable.
Our bunnies here at runaround are living long and well in their old age and they enjoy a system which includes the 8 x 4 run with a hay filled tray, a top box, mesh tunnels, and a clear dig with a den snug added for winter. We change the hay a lot, add straw when it is really cold and move the run every two days. The bunnies run about free when we do this. It really doesn't feel like we trap them at all, but keep them safe and happy.
In your small draught free zones add plenty of hay and straw (straw is warmer) and refresh it frequently. The rabbits will burrow into this on colder days and snuggle together. They can provide their own form of central heating by staying close, breathing warmth into that small space and enjoying their full winter coats.
]]>Firstly they are never short of grass. This is the abrasive which deals with the growing teeth and keeps them in check. We like to allow some free roaming time and we also move the runs as much as we can for fresh foraging. Grass and weeds are collected on a daily basis twice a day in winter and placed in different locations in their runaround so they need to seek them out.
Next movement, we love to see our rabbits move and wriggle, hop and jump. Polar (white lop) is less agile than Teddy at half his age. Teddy is 11 and Polar age 5 cannot move as quickly. Her poorer eyesight possibly has led her to not rushing about but I think her inbreeding has worked against her as well. To encourage them to move they need options so the interconnected run system did that and additionally whenever we visited some free roaming time.
For keeping warm and healthy I think we all can feel it is far better to be on the move. I am delighted with the speed of Teddy in his senior years, he hasn't even started to look old yet!
So keep the bunnies busy, active, munching their natural food and also I would suggest living outside. There is much to recommend it - fresh air, sounds of nature, connection with other living things.
Keep going Teddy and Polar, we are proud of you!
]]>Our bunnies are not the same age, one being on the way to 12 years and the other half that but the older one moves the fastest. When we move the run (which encourages them to explore, exercise and therefore get warmer) we can let them roam. They have more exercise being free and are pretty easy to catch now but usually they just trot back in if they know where they came out from.
It is a very pleasant thing gently herding Teddy and Polar home after a runaround in the garden. Of course when they go back inside their runaround it provides it's names-worth of connective exercise so its hardly encouraging them to stand still even then!
We must remember how quickly we warm up ourselves outside when we are moving and especially when wearing a fur coat (which I imagine we don't choose often). A rabbit is in a fur coat all day and it is naturally thicker in winter.
I have popped the clear sides on the 8x4 run so the wind won't blow across and rain in at one end and of course they have the roof cover too. The rest of their winter accommodation is varied between open and covered with views and without so it meets their special needs as a prey animal.
I am not telling them where to go but I watch with interest and if they are not using everything as much as usual and try to gauge why that is and make the right judgement call on their behalf. At present they are back in the dig, the mesh tunnels and the run with the tray at the end. I am happy they are all over it, every area. As it gets colder I expect to see them in the Top Box more and in the clear dig waiting for the watery sunshine to toast that area up.
Happy bunnies and happy owner learning every day.
]]>This issue is new and applies to a couple of rabbits who are intent on digging which has led to an escapee on one occasion (no loss of bunny though).
My experience has been luckier - they just don't dig and when they once did they helpfully filled it in again after a couple of weeks! I know another customer who had this very same thing happen recently and it is amazing. As logical creatures we think a dig is meant to be a route out but with rabbits it is not always the case.
In the early days we had a customer whose newly rescued bunnies immediately dug inside their run. Instead of flooring the run we place 3 x standard tunnels in a row at the back of her border where the soil was looser. The rabbits dug one way and piled it up and the other direction the next day! They also left the lawn alone.
Clear digs, filled trays, planters can help but if your rabbit seeks the ground only then maybe an area you are willing for them to dig in could be the answer. I would certainly like to try this out but my relaxed buns are not giving me the problem just now.
So if anyone can help I would love to hear from you. Solutions and ideas to try for persistent digging - all lateral thinking on the topic will be very welcome!
]]>Made me think human beings are always in a rush and animals often remind us to slow down and take stock. The philosophers of old often thought we should adapt ourselves to the rhythms of the natural world.
As we approach September (post our holidays when we are glad to be out of routine and able to relax and think) it is good to make plans for the working months and remember nothing is gained from charging ahead without making time for ourselves and other creatures.
We are only another creature ourselves and part of the natural rhythm of things whether we like to be or not. There is always time to wait for things to happen in the natural world. In our instant world that could be perceived as a kind of boredom. Beneath the surface, however, things are being made and erupting all the time - nature is very busy and surprising, not ever really asleep, the pauses are not idle.
When we relax we may have our best thoughts and when we connect to our fellow creatures I think we are at our best.
So I am grateful to Polar and our time with her eye. She reminded me to stop for a minute today!
]]>Still more of us will have to leave them with a neighbour or friend and try to make the job as easy as possible for our helper. In warm weather the concerns are that shade will be required at all times, plus areas to freely move to when the sun changes position. Use shade wisely, check sun direction and pivot extra shade where needed to make a cool secure spot.
Clay pipes are great for somewhere to take a breath and roof covers are excellent everywhere when its hot but no side ones (to allow good air flow). The pipe may heat up so turfing over sections of it or creating a brick tunnel over it temporarily will cool it down. Burying it will offer the same cooling effect. otherwise shading it with sunshade poised in the right place.
Look out for what happens in the day where the rabbits are kept so you can adjust it to have enough choice of areas while you are away. Ideally allow as access to as many areas as possible so the rabbits choose the best location. Then you need a reliable bunny sitter to be watchful on fresh cold water and offering sprinkled grass or willow - tempting a cooling nibble.
Prepare also for the breaking of the weather, usually a storm. This could create a temporary flood and again covers will protect the rabbit and access to a safe indoor enclosure or off the ground as in a top box or lookout. Anything poised higher could be useful for a short time in heavy rain.
You could have a pile of forage ready for your helper to add to the run and write down your rabbits usual routine as our pets respond better to regularity and repetition. They will hopefully have an enlightening time seeing rabbits through new eyes!
]]>We had made tunnels and boxes in strong mesh and a door and pipe link. Over the years these refined and changed but the concept remained very similar and the desire was to allow rabbits out of hutches into their runs without the owner having to remember. We found even good owners could arrive at work and be cross they had forgotten the rabbit who was quietly suffering at the bottom of the garden.
Being a vulnerable pet we found three things went very much against the rabbit's chance of happiness. First they don't make a sound when they are suffering but continue to look cute, second as a prey animal there was an urge to lock them up very securely (which goes against their natural needs and the fact that a prey animal is terrified when locked up or caught in a a small space without exits), third that as quiet, fluffy creatures they were assumed to be desirable and easy child's pet.
Poor rabbits. On top of this the Victorians who fattened them up for dinner in hutches had popularised their fattening cages and the hutch became the second word after 'rabbit' in our language and appeared in many genres but especially children's books teaching children it was a happy situation.
Quite a lot to work to do against all this incorrect information. No pet should be cheap or easy! All pets rely on you heavily and even if they are not locked up you are responsible for their needs 100% of the time. If locked up, as was the custom with rabbits, the dangers of accidental mistreatment were huge. The only comparison I would use is children. Pet care should be the same level of thought and care, factoring in we don't know them so well as our own kind and we have to be very perceptive to understand correctly.
Runaround came from the point of view that to be free was the best for a rabbit but as a second best there should be some equipment in place to accommodate the bred and captive rabbits that were currently owned. To do this we just wanted the best second alternative. There had to be choice of movement, places to hide, ability to run, dig and stretch.
There had to be room for minimum 2 rabbits and a push to engage everyone to take on a pair not a single bunny. We got the connection rolling to let all those bunnies out of the the hutch (early days we used to smile and say 'another freed bunny' when we sold one) Then we added things and sturdy runs to make a long lasting living habitat. We cared about the design and the function but most of all we cared about how our rabbits responded to it all.
The early runaround did not cater to the owners that much. The rabbits were able to evade them very well! In order to make sure future owners would offer this we then worked hard to make it accessible and easy to use with the door allowing blocking off when catching a rabbit was necessary. We are still thinking everyday about what we can do to improve and we appreciate the feedback over the years, most of which has been absolutely lovely to hear. Vital points were made along the way that helped to eradicate anything that failed or simply improve the design. I have to say I like this part of the job the best!
I hope the designs we have made can help anyone in the most awkward size or shaped back garden or yard to do something incredible for their rabbits and really get a lot more fun out of keeping them too. We want to encourage invention and many rabbit owners out there have made wonderful installations on multi-levelled outdoor spaces to utilise the space for their pets.
The rabbit is smart, active and social. As selective rangy eaters their diet is hugely important. Once we look after them in the way they would wish their confidence in us increases and a bond of respect grows.
These adorable small pets can thrive and live until their teens with you, amazing you every day with something you didn't know about rabbits!
]]>Teddy is fond of the lookout and it fits just him when he wants time away from the lively Polar! (respect for Ted at age 11, Polar 5)
The guinea pigs who were always in the hay hutch in winter are now permanently in the 4ft run. It's great to see them choosing their areas to suit the temperature. Everything is still available if they change their minds!
One of my favourite items that the rabbits don't have currently was the mesh tunnel to den pipe back to mesh tunnel link. I loved watching them hop through!
I think I might pop one of these back in the system during the summer or autumn as it was fun. We had quite a long one once and called it the exercise link. There was a video of the 4 buns all jumping through after one another which I will pop on facebook again as it was fun to watch!
I love it when the grass is growing, it is a very happy season with bunnies, always something tasty to eat that is simply growing free.
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Presently we keep our rescues inside our system of top Boxes, runs and tunnels because we are in a garden near a road. Previously we had use of a garden where they could be free during the day but with many hiding spaces. Rabbits aren't daft and they know they are someone's dinner if they don't take care so you would find them relaxing inside the system at noon and out of it when active.
If I could have my dream set up it would be a group of rabbits altogether with as much space as possible and sleeping quarters and hiding places all scattered about like separate warrens. They could meet each other but have private quarters with the rabbits they were closest to and only be inside when they wanted. I wonder if this would feel a bit like the freedom of wild bunnies and would they become further naturalised?
One surprise for me over the years has been that the rabbits we have kept as freely as possible did become rather tame and trusting of us. We didn't pick them up often and with very few exceptions they did not bite us when we did. It was rather as if we had recognised their needs and they responded to us like another animal who was well disposed to them!
You do hear of different wild animal species helping one another when in distress and this gives us all a really warm feeling. It is the respect and understanding that we are all vulnerable, all relying on earth and all able to sympathise one with the other. We can relate to it ourselves so easily.
Quite exciting to think we can try to meet the rabbits we save on their terms and learn more and more about them through having things done 'their way' rather than ours.
]]>Some of us might welcome a slow down, less planes, slower journeys, less technology but it is unlikely many of us will all want to go back in time as it could easily be viewed. Some developments may help to save the earth such as inventing ways to feed the human population without using more resources.
One of the gaping realities of life is that we do view the world and everything on it as ours for the taking and often forget how much we rely on it being an unchanging refuge. Good custodians relate not to ownership but care of something for the time it is in their grasp (in this case the earth while we are alive!)
I prefer to think of custodianship with my relationship to my pets. We are blessed to look after them for the time and we must consider what they are here for rather than what we desire from them. There are already so many animals in rescue because of over breeding that it is our duty now to rescue not buy. It is our duty not to breed unnatural features for a desired look, especially if it affects their health, as it often does.
Rabbits are still closely related to their wild cousins, in so many ways, that to deprive them of their natural instincts seems unkind. By this I would say being outside listening to the natural world. The sounds of this are important to any of earth's creatures including us.
We need company and so do our pets - we could be that company but what if they prefer their own kind? Seeing rabbits feeling at home and doing what comes naturally is something I feel we can all enjoy so there is no lack of attachment if they live together rather more independently from us.
We earn their respect and trust and I am forever gauging the right amount of contact and what is just imposing on them. I prefer being nearby and meeting them on their own terms. If the bunny comes to you it is so much more flattering!
So maybe we need to look around us and rein back our speed and appreciate and learn from the pace and the needs of the natural world and the many varied animals that live in it. Wouldn't that make a wonderful difference to life.
]]>At Runaround we like giving our bunnies a fee run. They are older and not so hard to round up now, but even when young we used to allow this. Through doing this we learned when rabbits want to rest they find something to go under or in, for example, under a tree, underneath a shed or bench - often completely out of sight.
While resting we sensed that rabbits prefer a small space. It provides comfort in the form of warmth, security from predators and with less of that to worry about they can truly relax.
Caged pets are something I have never been happy about personally, especially when they can't move out! Linking areas made me feel much happier about keeping rabbits at all. Through watching over the years and to date we have noted how much the small spaces are used.
The answer is - all the time! top boxes, hay hutches, clear digs and look out boxes are greatly favoured as a snug resting zone so long as there are two exits and a covered roof in hot weather. For a long time at Runaround we have debated making our version of the "6ft hutch" - but we find our rabbits don't use these larger spaces to rest in. When we extended the top box to 4ft by 2ft (twice as big) the 4 rabbits all sat together in just half of it. So we gave them two small resting zones instead of one big one - just incase they would ever prefer resting as two bunnies in each area.
The clear dig has surprised us with the rabbits. It was invented so the rabbits could dig at the National Pet Show exhibiting their natural behaviour to the visitors. We were constantly asked to make it available and at the time it was constructed from 10mm thick acrylic so was very heavy and very expensive.
When we did create it finally in 2018 it had to be made from an expensive material 10 times stronger than our perspex doors. Despite the cost of it the clear dig has been really popular both with customers and the rabbits. They clearly know it protects them even though they are not hidden at all which it interesting. It is a bonus in winter as it provides a place to sunbathe. In summer the lookout box would be cooler as it has mesh sides that can be open to the air.
So the result is we are going to continue make a variety of spaces that suit our own rescued rabbits who have lived long, healthy and happy lives with us so far. We will continue to consult them on which item they prefer but the more choice the better - that best represents the free bunny's life!
]]>With a general excitement in the air so it is good to plan a new set up in Spring. Our rabbits have been out all year anyway, but they love a change and some new items to explore. As such, we added the lookout box to the system. We popped ours on a convenient table but we intend to make a simple strong stand for these as well. With a tray inside it could contain soil or hay, and the height means the rabbits can safely peep out being higher than any danger.
An underground location is another option - often I am asked about burying pipe, and it is a great thing to do! It is a steady temperature underground that is helpful when it is very hot or very cold. It's a perfect hiding place from passing predators or any temporary fright. You can shallow bury a section of pipe or run it though a mound, even turfing around a piece works too. Alternatively, placing a section of pipe inside a larger piece of pipe creates an easy dart hole - such as the pipe sleeve.
Some customers have half buried the hay hutch which is pretty nice for the rabbits as it is a natural situation for them to have their meeting place under the ground, temperature controlled!
It is interesting to note where the rabbits are and when. If you came during daytime to see our rabbits at the moment you could be forgiven for thinking ours live in the clear dig. They are there a lot just now as in cooler conditions they enjoy the winter sun through the perspex sides.
In summer they are more likely to be in the run under shade and at night they prefer to go up to rest in the Top Box or the new Look-out box. All these options are happily connected up via connection kits meaning our rabbits have a lot of choice and we can enjoy seeing what they use and when.
Free play is part of their day as well when we clean out and move the equipment around. It is particularly rewarding to see rabbits choose to go back in their runaround after being free. If they vote with their paws to return home I feel we have done right by them and we look forward to learning more about them through this Spring and Summer.
]]>There is nothing like a hare racing across a field in front of you to make you see the day in a completely new way. I used to feel very happy when I could go up and listen to our free range chickens chortling to one another. This would made my personal worries seem like a lot less.
I wonder if being at home more has made us closer to our pets generally, and if this will be affected by a return to the usual pace of life with all its diversions.
Our dog seems a lot happier now we work and school from home. He is rarely alone any more. We have had a bit more time to sit and watch the rabbits in free play. It was so easy to be 'very busy' before and on the move. There was almost a worry of being left behind if you weren't totally occupied.
Yet beauty is in not found in rushing but in enjoying doing things well. Animals seem to do this on the whole. They are busy I suspect but with a natural pace that makes them appear relaxed.
Maybe they don't worry about the neighbours as much as us - unless they are after their territory! We are also capable of court boundary disputes - it is an instinctive protection of your space so we share this anxiety.
I look forward to the end of the present lock down and a bit of normality returning but I intend to carry on making time work better. Looking after our pets will still be the top priority - but I will add 'no rushing' or 'fitting it in'. Let us see if it makes me a better owner!
]]>Over the years our rabbits have been kept in extensive interconnected runs, but never with floors. Yes, we have had diggers - but we haven't had escapees through digging. There must be a reason for this.
If a prey animal feels trapped and in danger their instinct might propel them to dig to escape. Equally, if there is tasty grass outside the run but not within it, there is an incentive to escape.
Alternatively, if their home is regarded as their sanctuary, a safe place, where they prefer no unexpected visitors - then digging out is a bad idea.
When our rescues were settling in they dug, they tried the boundaries until they were sure of everything. We left the digs until they got quite long, checking everyday if they were likely to escape. We found tunnel extended but didn't bob back up. Then, one morning it was all filled in - overnight!
Did they decided amongst themselves that they were putting themselves at risk digging this route? I will never know, I couldn't ask them! As I grew to trust them more after settling in I let them out to play free but they always returned to the Runaround Door they were let out of. This seemed to back up the idea it was their safe place available to them at all times.
So having had many rabbits over the years with 24/7 access to the runs with mesh skirting, we have never needed to floor them. Neither have we had a fox try to dig in as the rabbit can move away at once and be somewhere else.
We sell run floors and suggest they are pressed into the ground so the rabbits' feet don't come into contact with it, but we always recommend trying without and taking stock of what they do first.
My feeling is once the run and the links are adequate for them to consider it their 'home', and if it is moved frequently to relive boredom, then digging to escape shouldn't occur. Dig boxes and trays can be added to allow this normal expression of behaviour. But a lot of how we house rabbits is possibly based on our human fear of what could happen and we like to 'cover it' when maybe we don't need to.
Nothing wants to be trapped and if we can use a lighter touch and house more naturally is that not a better way forward?
]]>It was very topical as today as it was the coldest day for working in a shed! We tend to feel it when its heading sub zero at night and our minds immediately jump to the rabbits and guinea pigs. They have their small (so easily warmed) areas and to help this we have banked up with straw as well as hay. Straw is a natural bedding and warmer than hay. You can stuff a top box or den dig or look out tower full and let them organise it afterwards.
To increase warmth we have made an extra double insulating layer to capture warmth before it escapes on the roof of the top box. We always did for the guinea pigs but we have treated the rabbits to the same - Teddy appears young but is ten years old after all!
We're keeping our water outside rather than in the top box as although this would be warmer the guinea pigs will spill it all over the bed and the rabbits won't even find a bowl in there! We want to encourage them to move which also keeps them warm so any treats including pellets are offered anywhere in their run so they have to seek it out and get warm looking for it. We usually combine with some fresh hay and clump it on a seat or the floor but never use a bowl.
Fresh picked herbs and grass can be added to the hay wall in the top box or hay tubes in the runs.
The clear front of the top box (when uncovered) is excellent for allowing shy winter sunshine to send a ray of warmth inside. This is why the clear dig is quite popular as it is a small area which quickly heats up with just a little sun. The dig is great with soil in summer but more effective with straw and hay in winter.
Our bunnies are not alone or we may add a warmer. As it is we rely on them to cuddle up together at night. Free exercise in the day is also good as we know ourselves - once we start walking or running we want to take the layers off. A rabbit can't take his winter fur off so bringing him suddenly inside would be traumatic. It would be like wearing a fur coat in your living room!
If you are worried about cold bunnies we suggest you make a good draught free small area for your bunny to go to preferably with two exits. They still like to hear the outside world so ideally connect to the outside not inside especially if they are already used to being out. It would be odd to come inside because the sounds of nature would be missing. Everything a rabbit can react to makes him move and use his senses. This is good in cold weather and good all the time for it is what he is naturally interested in.
]]>It will also accommodate a deep tray like the watch tower plus so the bunnies can dart under it or jump in, or pop up through the burrow hole in the tray.
It will be easy to cover, the natural tunnel curve helping rain disperse at once and you will be able to cover to ground level or leave a gap at the base.
The picture here is of Polar and Teddy exploring it during one of their bonding sessions. It seems that with space and time these two are now getting along nicely! Very rewarding to see and quite unexpected as we were thinking we would need to find new rescue partners for both.
Another new idea is a step in hatch for the 8x4 run to help you access it. This is combined with a fitted cover which will unzip where you open the roof rather than having to take the whole cover off.
New innovations for a New Year which we hope will be an improvement on 2020 for us all. So here is to Christmas and the New Year hoping for more human freedoms and definitely freedom and happiness for our rabbits!
]]>All our rabbits are on grass 24/7 with plenty of hay and a very few typical treats. The treats they are given include carrot tops, cabbage leaf, a piece of celeriac, herbs and willow, apple or pear branches.
We also gather wild tasty bits from under the hedge and include some rose petals or crispy autumn leaves when available. You can gather weeds them yourself and keep a while and offer dried.
In winter nugget food is limited to once a day and no more than an egg cup. It is all eaten up at once never left in the run. We usually mix it in the hay tube or with some grass and hay. We recommend mixing anything you give your rabbit to eat with hay so that they have to sniff it out and eat by foraging which is more interesting and healthy for them.
Most rabbits love grass but when you adopt one that has never seen grass it may take a while. Polar did not spot grass as a tasty food for some time. She was 2 when we rescued her and it was clear she had never eaten it. Bear gradually brought her round to the idea!
I usually find that with a variety of choice rabbits do eat a moderate amount of what is good for them and if they are free it is interesting to see how after eating a tasty green leaf they may then choose a dried strand of grass - a natural hay!
They will forage inside the hedge nibbling hawthorn and bits of this and that. So the more we mix up all the healthy food the more balanced their diet should be.
I find it rewarding to see them sorting out an interesting bundle of hay with bits of fresh plucked grass and herbs inside and the odd pellet. It certainly keeps them busy and they usually eat their favourites first.
The picture shows our rabbit Rat in her free run having a great time in the hawthorn and among the nettles. What a lovely stretch she makes going after a tasty morsel. This is what we aim for our rabbits to be doing when inside their runarounds so we use hay tubes, pop hay in positions slightly higher - sometimes a hay cloud on a bench or stuffed into the mesh.
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Over the years there are some rabbits with such huge characters that the whole household was in tears when we lost them. The gap they left felt just the same as losing a dog which normally rates the closest to losing one of our own kind.
We never forget our rabbits and having adopted over the years when they were not always young we were bound to face the loss of one at some point.
Bear was a character - he was found crossing the country lane in the village here. Luckily he was picked up - after advertising for his owner to come forward (to no avail) we decided to take him in. Our rabbits were in pairs and ran free most days so he joined in. He immediately set about ousting Mouse's current partner and taking her for himself.
This made a lasting bond, he stood by his little Mouse until she died of natural causes one night and was found being snuggled by Bear in the run.
He did bite. I wonder if that was why he was abandoned? You always knew to be quick and firm when handling him as he would tuck his head in and get a piece of you to remind you to let him go. We didn't pick him up more than we had to and I don't remember him ever biting the vet.
When we lost Bear's wife, Mouse, we had to try bonding him again with Polar who was only two. It took a few months. We had them next to each other with a chatting wall all that time before finally opening the door and they explored each other's homes. They then became the most adorable couple.
We had no idea of his age - he arrived fully grown in 2013. It was only this year in lockdown (March) he suddenly became ill and was treated for e cuniculi. He recovered but it left him with a head tilt which did actually improve over the summer but never completely.
He would still eat hungrily and chew the grass when we let him out for frequent runs free. Lately he did fall over more often and although it was a soft landing we could see he was finding it harder and harder to get back up. Polar kept by his side and ate with him and cuddled him which was perfect.
When we found him lying, still warm but not alive the other morning you could not have wished more for him really. His rabbit protector was right by his side. It was as natural for him as it could be.
So now we wish to bond Polar into the group whilst never forgetting her Bear.
]]>Some of our customers are shocked the pipe doesn't go through the centre of the door, or that the 8-inch diameter pipe fits to a 6-inch diameter aperture door. However, all these designs have been tested and found to work.
Sometimes I receive phone calls from customers asking to exchange 6-inch for 8-inch pipe. Over the years I have found many of these issues can be quickly resolved by asking a few simple questions.
The first thing I ask is "have you connected it?'. If the pipe is loose in the run or house and the rabbit is ignoring it, it is not that unusual.
Then I ask "has the bunny got a friend to encourage them or is he/she alone?" Some single rabbits are going to be cautious whilst having two can help to encourage quicker exploration.
The next question is "have the rabbits been put either side of the connection so they can relate it to it going somewhere?" This change in perspective often helps bunnies get their bearings and they confidently start using the pipe!
My next suggestion is pop some herbs inside to encourage them. They may just pop their heads in and out and eat them, but it is a good start.
Don't worry if your rabbit goes through to the centre and then backs out again. They like to this to check what they can do, as sometimes reversing is necessary!
The final and best suggestion I can give - leave them to it with TIME. They are more likely to try it when you are not watching and probably at night. Leave the opening available to them and see what happens. They enjoy new routes, you are offering a new private tunnel (as in a warren) but they don't know where it goes yet. Once bunnies realise this is just an extension of their home, they begin using the connection regularly.
I think our champion reluctant rabbit took three months to venture through. The customer was on the verge of swapping for a more open mesh tunnel when, bingo, one day the bunny was joyfully running back and forth without pause. To conclude I have provided some thoughts from one owner who recently had this issue for a short while.